Spilia-Kourdali

The villages Spilia-Kourdalli are located in Nicosia, Cyprus, 71 km southwest of the homonymous city, 46 km north of Limassol, 97 km west of Larnaca and 84 km northeast of Paphos.

Two settlements in the northwestern part of the Madaris mountain range and just before the Troodos mountain range, at an altitude of 1,000 meters and in the heart of the Adelfoi forest, the villages of Spilia-Kourdali are located in the region of Solea and bordered by the Limassol province. Although they are two neighboring communities with two separate community councils, they are considered as a single destination by locals and foreigners and are both characterized by picturesque, restored traditional houses renovated by expatriates and foreigners or newly built country houses, there to enjoy the exceptional natural environment and the ideal climate of the area. The easy access to the large urban centers and the many attractions, museums and nature trails surrounded by lush vegetation attract many visitors who come to this beautiful spot of central Cyprus. In the area are cultivated vines of wine-making varieties, fruits such as cherries, peaches, apples, quinces and vegetables with predominantly bean, tomatoes and potatoes crops. The most famous product are the spiliotika walnuts. From Spilia begins its flow the river Atsas, which then crosses Kourdali and among the forests surrounding the area, there are abandoned settlements and the ruins of ancient churches. The infrastructure in the two communities can satisfy even the most demanding guests, as there are agrotouristic lodgings, hotels, cafes and taverns that provide high quality services in the lush green environment.

Historically, Spilia-Kourdali have existed since the 16th century, when the church of Panagia Chrysokourdaliotissa, which was the center of a monastery, was built. Around the monastery, there were several estates in which some families gradually started to build small communities, creating Kourdali, but due to the narrow valley, some began to settle one kilometer higher in the area of ​​the current village of Spilia, having an easier access to the "Walnut Valley". Over the course of time, and especially in the 19th century, Spilia evolved into a larger community than Kourdali, and residents of nearby settlements that were slowly abandoned, came here. Most men worked in the surrounding mines of asbestos, chromium of Fukasa or as lodgers, and women worked in the estates or engaged in livestock farming. A historical place that left its mark also on the EOKA’s liberation struggle against the English in 1955-59, as here was located the hideout of the organization, with the entire settlement of Spilia being actively involved in the struggle. The 1960s were perhaps the period of peak development for the villages, and later the two villages were both hit by the wave of urbanisation of the 1970s.

Spilia took its name from the Roman tombs (“spilios”, as they were called, since they looked like spilies – caves) found on the western side of the village, while Kourdali from the founder of the ancient temple of the communal monastery, Ioannis Kourdalis.

In Spilia there is the old and the new church of Agios Antonios, standing one next to the other. The old one is a stone-built one-aisled building of 1850 with a wooden roof and outside its western door there is the Pine-bell tower, one of the many sights of the area. The trunk of the towering bifurcated pine tree is divided into two thick "armpits", among which the bell tower was built. At the base of the pine is a large rectangular stone, which, according to tradition, was laid by Saint Anthony to cover the point where a native came to cut the pine but did not succeed.

In the interior of the temple there are angel’s doors of the 16th century brought from another church, while the icon of Saint Anthony dates back to 1851 and the icons of Christ, the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist to 1858. In 2003, the old temple was declared an ancient monument by the Department of Antiquities of Cyprus and its support and maintenance work began. The new temple was inaugurated in 1970 and is a stone-built building with a dome and arches, made of local red brick. Each year, on the day of Saint Anthony’s celebration, there is a big festival that attracts many people from all over Cyprus.

Agios Georgios Karydiou is a chapel at the “Karydi” site in Spilia, next to the main road that leads to the community and was built in 1994 in the ruins of an older church.

Panagia Chrysokourdaliotissa has been included in the Monuments of European Cultural Heritage for the building and its remarkable frescoes and is the oldest monument of the community, situated next to the river of Atsa and in a green environment with walnuts, olives and a dense pine cluster. The beautiful building of Chrysokourdaliotissa was built in the 16th century by the priest Ioannis Kourdalis and is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Next to the church there is a Venetian bridge that connects it to the village and is considered the oldest of its kind in Solea. Also, outside the western entrance of the temple, there are two ancient olive trees dating back to the same period and an ancient hawthorn tree. One kilometer below the village is the “Sykia tis Chrysanthou”, the largest of the fig trees of the genus “delunica” that grows only in some villages of Pitsilia. The walnut tree “Pouxiourina” at the “Karydi” site is probably the most ancient of Cyprus and has been declared protected.

Andreas Chrysanthou Community Park offers panoramic views, a playground and amphitheater and is located on the central hill, next to the church of Agios Antonios. At the "Eirini Chrysanthou Park" there is also a commemorative plaque for the teachers of Spilia-Kourdali community, Klearchos Kyriakidis, Eftychia Kasinos and Andreas Valiantis.

The Folklore Museum of Spilia-Kourdali is located at the entrance of the Spilia’s core and exhibits the folklore of the area, hosting numerous objects and items of everyday use or tools from traditional professions.

Krya Vrissi is the old drinking fountain of Spilia in the bed of a stream and until 1960 it was the main source of water for the village. It was built in 1908 to receive the water of two adjacent sources. This stone tank ends in two taps at different heights, from which the cold water runs into three troughs. Around 1980, the water was infected and since then is characterized as not safe for drinking.

At the eastern end, in the "Laos" area, there is the Tomb of Panoukla. The two boulders on top of each other were the place where the Virgin of the Kurdalon crushed the plague that was killing the inhabitants. The myth states that the Virgin after spending a night in her church, found the plague and chased it. The plague climbed on the rock to escape, but the Virgin Mary grabbed the next rock and crushed it with it.

Pafitena’s Olive Mill in Spilia was built in 1894 and operated until 1954, and today it has been restored to be one of the best preserved olive mills in Cyprus.

The preserved house of Theophilos Fylaktides, a 19th-century two-storey house built with local stone, is located in Kourdali, in the center of the village. In addition to the traditional pillar that supports the elevated ground floor, it is remarkable that the stone walls are not covered with plaster, creating a unique environment.

The”house of Antigoni” is another preserved house of exceptional folk architecture, with rich traditional furnishings and decoration, built in 1870, renovated and inaugurated in 2008. The house, owned by Andreas Chrysanthou, is located in the center of Spilia and houses in its semi- basement the Museum of the cobbler Christos Chrysanthou.

The hideouts of EOKA were a system of 3 hideaways, with warehouses, kitchen and observatories at the ridge of Kourdali village and built in the summer of 1955. The hideout hosted EOKA’s leader General George Griva Digeni, the hero Grigori Afxentiou and 18 other rebels in 1955 Here, on December 11, 1985, the hideout was encircled by a number of English soldiers, and the famous “Battle of the Spilion” was conducted, in which the English lost many soldiers, and Digenis and his men escaped without loss. Today the hideouts have been repaired by the Department of Forests, which created a network of trails in the area, with explanatory signs, pointers and benches. The Kugi of EOKA in Kourdali is the home where 4 fighters (Andreas Patsalidis, Kostas Anaxagoras, Panagiotis Georgiadis, Alekos Konstantinou) died in 1958 from a very strong explosion and has now become a museum.

The impressive monument of Heroes with the 4 statues of the EOKA fighters is located in the center of the village of Spilia and was founded in 1993. From 1958 until today, the memorial to the four fallen is held by the communal Sports Club and is the biggest national holiday in Spilia-Kurdali. At the monument there is also a commemorative plaque with the names of the heroes of the Turkish invasion of 1974, Loizos Koukkouli and Andreas Neocleous, of 1964 Andreas Agisilaou and Michalis Kakoullis and of the 1st World War Chrysostomos Kleanthi Ieridis.

The traditional winery of Spilia is located at the eastern end of the village and was built by its owner, Andreas Chrysanthou. With traditional equipment, cauldrons, jars and carboys, an old wine press for grapes and other small items, it is one of the ornaments of the settlement. The varieties that are produced here are black grapes, ksinisteri, pambaka, spourti, but also zivania (traditional pomace brandy), liqueurs and other beverages.